Friday, July 18, 2014

Healthy Hair Color Tips: Bleaching and Funky Colors

A question I am asked a lot is "How do you keep your hair so healthy?" Well let me first admit that my hair has been through a lot! But being a hairstylist that's quite normal. We love to change our hair color often! It can take a toll on the strength and integrity of your hair strands. So over the years I've figured out what works best for *my* hair. I'm hoping this post will help others that might need some hair care advice, but remember everyone's hair is different. I've been doing hair professionally since 2007, and I've seen firsthand the effects various dyes and products can do on hair. So definitely talk to your stylist for a professional opinion because they will know best!

For my own hair, I bleach the new growth (roots) with Wella's Blondor and 40 volume developer. If I need to strip the color out of the ends of my hair I will use a lower volume that is not as strong. 40 volume on the ends of your hair is a bad idea! Sometimes I'll wet my ends and shampoo it lightly then lather in some 40 vol bleach. That dilutes it a little and won't be as harsh on your hair.

I typically let bleach sit on my hair for about 30 minutes under a shower cap. If you plan on doing a bright, funky color then you need your hair as light as possible and may need to sit longer. The best way to explain this is to picture a white piece of paper and different color crayons. The colors will be bright on the white paper, but if you took a darker piece of paper the colors won't be as vibrant.

Once my hair is light enough, I rinse the bleach out with cold water (yes cold cold) and shampoo it with It's A 10 Keratin shampoo. When coloring, I don't use conditioner afterwards. This way my hair is more porous and the funky color will last longer.

Then I gently blowdry my hair until it's completely dry and plan what color I want to do next. Lately I've been doing pastels. To make a pastel dye I squeeze a bunch of conditioner into a bowl. (I use any cheap conditioner since I use a lot of it. Just make sure it's white. I used a blue one once and it didn't lighten my dye.) Add some drops of color to your conditioner and stir. If it's too light then keep adding more color until you like it. Here are some brands of color I use:

When you like the color in your bowl, start putting it on your hair. Always start at your scalp and work down the hair strand. Be sure to take small sections and completely saturate the hair. Funky colors will last longer if you really soak the hair in it. Then I put on another shower cap and let it sit for at least an hour. The longer the better! Most funky colors are demi-permanent, which means they don't have any ammonia in them. They are not as harmful to your hair. Plus most of your concoction is conditioner and letting it sit on your hair for 1 hour+ is awesome. Your hair is so happy right now.

Once it's time to rinse I use cold cold water again and let it run until it looks clear in the sink. I don't shampoo or add any more conditioner to it. I just gently towel dry it and then let it air dry quite bit.

When I'm ready to blow dry I first add a quarter size amount of It's A 10 Keratin Serum. The keratin helps rebuild the strength in your hair after the bleaching. Then I blow dry with a vent brush and flat iron as normal. After that I add another dime size amount of It's A 10 Keratin Serum to give it a smooth and shiny finish.

It's important not to shampoo your hair too often. I probably only wash my hair once a week. The natural oils in your hair are great moisturizers for dryness. I swear I am not endorsed by It's A 10, but it's also what I shampoo and condition with in-between coloring! I used a lot of products at the salon I worked at, and it's the one I liked most. A more affordable alternative is the TRESemme Anti-Breakage collection. I've witnessed it work very well!

Finally, be sure to get regular trims to take care of any dead-ends, and try to avoid too much sun damage which can fade hair color and dry it out.

I hope this was helpful! Let me know! :)


What type of hair products do you love?
Have you ever colored your hair before?


  1. I've been wanting to try some bright colours in my hair for a while but to be honest have always been put off by the idea of the amount of damage it could cause. Thanks so much for these tips though, might just have to give it a go! xx

  2. Thanks, great tips! I'm thinking of getting some funky coloured highlights, and reading your post gave me a better idea. ^__^

  3. Your hair is so awesome! It looks so soft. I always try to tell people to wash their hair less and that once their scalp adjusts.. it's really NOT that dirty anymore. They don't believe me. Oh well! haha

    I am having a problem with pastels though.. near my roots! I am currently lavender and the color near my roots fade to dark blonde fast.. and I'm not able to cover it with color again. Would you recommend using 40 vol for bleaching that area? I stick to 30 but those parts are so annoying.. I don't know what would be best! D:

    1. I have the same probably at my new growth, too, sometimes. Since the hair at the root is so new and healthy it is generally not as porous as the rest of our hair strands. You could try 40 vol or just leaving your 30 on a little longer. Bleaching it twice would open the cuticle more, too, if your scalp can handle it! Another alternative is to use darker color at the scalp since it's likely to fade faster.

  4. I always love your hair and love finding out how your making it work and what products your using! I'm a hair stylist too and it amazes me how little we learn in school and how MUCH learning comes after! I feel like I learn more and more every year!
    I use a purple shampoo when I do shampoo which is usually like twice a week. I put a little bit of actual color mixed with the shampoo and it helps a tiny bit but nothing life changing.
    I notice if I fix my hair with hairspray quite a bit it keeps my hair from getting too greasy on the days I'm stretching everything. If it's a bad hair day I'll sprinkle some baby powder on my roots to soak up some of the dirty! I'll tease it and hairspray and I'm golden!

    No matter what it's always upkeep to have awesome hair! It gets old but it is SO worth it in the long run!

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  6. Amazing, amazing!! I totally love the color of your hair!! You're gorgeous and kawaii~

  7. Super helpful post. After years of mixing bleach to god knows what volume and pouring it on my head I decided to get my roots bleached professionally now. My hair is now super healthy.

  8. That was hella helpful! Thank you!! I'm at a white blonde right now, and I LOVE to wash my hair everyday. I'm going to try not to (so difficult for me)!

  9. Would you consider a tutorial on how you cut your hair? Our cut is similar, I've been cutting my own hair with clippers to the back and a razor comb for a little over a year now. But your layers are flawless! Pretty please!

  10. Much thanks to you such a great amount for these tips!I've just been dying my hair brilliant bright shades for a couple of months so still have a ton to learn.Last time I utilized conditioner with the shade dye shockingly and simply left the color on over night and I can't improve my hair feels for it.Going to begin including a smidgen of color each one time I condition now,fabulous tip!Which will assuredly spare me needing to update my hair as often.Thanks again!!
    @Barbara Williams.

  11. Looking so cool and stylish hair bleaching, I'm very happy to see this one.

  12. This is super helpful; thank you so much for posting! May I ask your suggestions for sectioning off your hair? I'm wanting to bleach the front of my rather curly hair, a-la Rogue (From X-Men). I'm hoping to use Manic Panic's Flash Lightning Bleach and their Virgin Snow white toner. Also, something else I read suggested condition my hair for a few weeks head of time with coconut oil. Would you agree?

  13. Very much useful information which helped me gain something knowledgeable.
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  14. Wow amazing. hair colorings are looking so nice. Good tips. thanks for sharing.
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  15. Nice tips. Hair coloring looking so beauty. Thanks for sharing this tips.
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  16. I want to dye my hair blue or purple, or something like that and my mom won't let me. I told her I could get the colors as highlights, but she didn't know how to do them. I told her she could go to a professional, or some of our family friends, because they do hair too, but she said no. I don't know if NO means she wants to do it, or not at all. Do you have any advise?

  17. Sounds nice!! Will look for other color variants from this range, great for temporary hair coloring.
    visit here for how to color your hair at home


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